Indian Gujarat Kutchi Jain vintage silk embroidery (151 x 139cm)

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151 x 139 cm  //  4ft 11" x 4ft 7"

The silk embroidery is done on a lush satin silk ground - the panel bound with a burgundy silk tye dye  edge and lined with a lightweight muslin type cotton. Possibly made by the Jain community in Western Gujarat.

This textile is probably a Jain temple canopy from Kutch, Gujarat late 19th. The ground cloth looks like either imported Chinese satin or an Indian equivalent known as gajji silk.

The prominent stitch is interlacing stitch as found in Zoroastrian textiles, Balouch dress, Sindhi and Gujarati embroidery but also Armenian Marash embroidery. It is a stitch that travelled West to East being found in Europe first and then migrating slowly East. It is commonly referred to by the name of the province on its West.

The pattern is abstract I believe but might have a reference to stars or flowers.

With thanks to JG in cataloging this item.

• early 20th C

Ref. 17388